Welcome to the Jungle
chipettes
[info]ohgeezlouise
The day after Machu Picchu, Jackie was flying home, while Doan, Edwin, and I were off to Manu Jungle.  We took a small private plane out there, which was all kinds of awesome.  Aside from the two pilots, it was only the three of us on there.  We felt pretty special, actually.  The mountains looked gorgeous from the plane since we were flying a little lower.  Our landing strip was mostly grass and two small cement strips.  This is the "airport" we landed in.





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As bummed as I am that I missed out on the other things, hiking the Inca trail and hanging out in the jungle was all so overwhelming.  It was so much fun and lately all I can think about is making enough money to travel again, but this time for much longer and across several countries.  I was definitely envious of all the backpackers I met and the adventures they had.  Anyway, that's the last of my Peru stuff.


Finally at Machu Picchu!
applause
[info]ohgeezlouise
On our fourth and last day, we were up super early.  We were told the night before that we couldn't be late on this morning.  The porters had a train to catch at 6:30 am and absolutely couldn't miss it.  Otherwise, they'd have to wait until later in the day and pay their own fare, besides missing a day of work.  We were packed and at breakfast by 4:45 am.  The cook had made us a congratulatory cake.



Seriously!  We were all very impressed and you know, spoiled for this being a camping and hiking trip.  Breakfast was a quick thing.  The porters were already breaking everything down as we were eating.  We left shortly after so we could be at the last checkpoint early.  I think we were the third or fourth group in line.  We all stood there in the dark waiting for the gate to open and it was supposedly another forty-five minute hike to the Sun Gate.  Once the gate did open, it was practically a stampede.  The path was a lot narrower, the sun hadn't risen yet, and because we were at the beginnings of the rainforest, it was sprinkling on and off the whole morning, making a lot of the rocks very slippery.

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Inca Trail: Day 3
chipettes
[info]ohgeezlouise




We got to sleep in a little bit this morning since we had an "easy" day ahead of us.  After breakfast, the porters introduced themselves, which was kinda nice.  Later on at dinner, they did it again, but also adding what they had carried for us on the trail.  Like, "I carried the propane gas tanks," or "I set up the tents," kind of thing.  I felt a lot more appreciative of all the hard work they did making us as comfortable as possible on this trip.  We left shortly after the picture.  Marco had told us it was only a four hour hike to the lunch campsite, where we'd also end up spending the night.  There was a bar there and hot showers for cheap.  All of us were exhausted and in agreement that if we took longer to get there, it'd be okay since we were spending the whole day there.

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Inca Trail: Day 2
flying
[info]ohgeezlouise


Dawn on the second day.



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Inca Trail: Day 1
the kiss
[info]ohgeezlouise
Jackie, Edwin, Doan, and I booked our Inca Trail trip with Llama Path.  Several people on the Lonely Planet forums recommended them.  It turned out to be a really good choice for so many reasons (and I can't say enough good things about them).  We had a small group of six tourists, which made it really personal.  They were very professional, cared about their porters' welfare, and just had it together overall.  I really liked our tour guide, Marco.  He knew his stuff and it was amazing to hear the history and stories from someone who was so passionate and emotionally connected with the subject.

Marco picked us up at our hotel just as we were checking out at 5 am, along with a bus full of porters and John and Lyn, an older couple that was joining us for the trail.  John and Lyn were amazing, by the way.  They were cute and hilarious.  It was fun to watch them interact with each other.  The best part was that John is a doctor and Doan is a pharmacist with a full medicine cabinet in her backpack.  I figured we probably had the safest group to be traveling in.  We had breakfast at Ollantaytambo, followed by a two hour bus ride to the beginning of the trail.  None of us had slept much the night before and we tried to on the bus, but it was freezing.  I was wearing a down jacket, a hat, mittens, and secretly trying to cuddle with Jackie, but I could barely even doze without the cold waking me up.  We get to Km 82, which is the entrance of the trail.  (We have this same picture on about five different cameras):

From left to right: Edwin, me, Jackie, Doan, Lyn, and John.



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(no subject)
hi toad!
[info]ohgeezlouise
Shortly after I'd gotten back from the last leg of my Peru trip, I'd gotten sick.  I had all these symptoms that weren't related to each other.  I don't know for sure, but I think it was the side effects of my anti-malaria pills.  It was really kinda weird and extremely exhausting.  Or maybe my body just breaking down after an incredibly hard trip.  Anyway, by the time I got over it, it was time to leave for Hawaii and the Philippines and so I just haven't gotten around to updating and posting pictures.

I fell in love with Cusco.  While Lima was fun and beautiful, if I had to get stuck in a city with no income, money, or friends, I wish I'd ended up in Cusco instead.  Yes, more tourist-y, but it was more romantic, the history amazing, and just gorgeous everywhere you turned.  It wasn't very pleasant to walk on, but I loved the cobblestone streets.  We only had two days to spend there to get acclimated to the altitude, which was no joke.  Our hotel was very cute, in the San Blas neighborhood, surrounded by hills with narrow steps built into the sidewalk.  It was fine while you were moving, but when you stopped, you found yourself panting really hard and completely out of breath after just a few steps.  We all had some altitude medicine, all the while we were sucking down coca tea, which is the local remedy for curing altitude sickness.



I don't really like this picture, but anyway, this is our first sip of coca.  I don't know if it really worked, but it was tasty and very soothing.  By the end of the trip, I was pretty much drinking it at every meal.
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Anyway, I'm still sick.  Or it's something new, I don't know, but somewhere between here and Manila, I seem to have caught a cold.  Tomorrow I'll post the funner stuff.


(no subject)
the kiss
[info]ohgeezlouise
I'm leaving to go home tomorrow night.  I'll be back in a couple of weeks since I have deposits on the Inca Trail and rainforest stuff.

I'm kinda bummed though that I have to miss out on Lake Titicaca.  I was really looking forward to it.  So in the meantime:





(no subject)
link
[info]ohgeezlouise

My Spanish isn't terrible.  If I try hard enough, I can very slowly carry on a conversation, but mostly I just use phrases like "where is..." "I want to buy..." "I need..." "how much?" etc.  It's actually probably better than I think it is, but I'm not very confident in using it.  Between that and my need to properly conjugate the verb in the right tense with all the pronouns in the right places, I end up overthinking it and being too slow for most people who by this time resort to their English and I end up not getting as much practice as I should.

So on my way over here, I had a four hour stopover in Mexico City.  Having been up the night before my 7 am flight, I slept as soon as I got on the plane and missed the part about the customs/immigrations forms the flight attendants had passed out.  I only had a stopover, so I didn't think it was gonna be a big deal, but apparently it is.  When I got off the plane, it was apparent that I couldn't just walk over to my connecting flight and had to go through the whole thing.  This is about the time I'm regretting choosing the cheapest flight possible, wishing I'd had a stopover in Texas or Miami instead.

I fill out the forms as best as I could, leaving things blank because I didn't know what to put since it was just a stopover.  When I got to the immigration officer, he asked me a few questions in Spanish and I replied back in English.  He obviously understood me and could tell my Spanish wasn't that great.  At that point, he started speaking faster and louder.  I got really nervous, only catching every fifth word or so, asking him to speak more slowly, which he refused to do.  The shitty part was that when I got back in line and afterwards, I heard him speaking English to everyone else.  (I was in the "foreigners" line).  I was like wtf?  I wasn't being difficult or anything that had warranted him lashing out at me.

When I got to customs, they asked me if I had anything to declare, and I said I had some oatmeal bars in my backpack.  It was mostly okay, but one of the women there said something to me and I didn't know any of the words.  She rolled her eyes and repeated herself louder and louder.  Sure enough though, when the person behind me walked through, I heard her speaking English to them.

And then when I went through security, one of the guards stopped me asking to see my wallet.  He spoke to me in English, opened up my wallet, my passport, went through my money.  He was asking me questions like "Is this all the money you have?  Are you sure?  How old are you?  Are you sure?  Are you traveling alone?  Why?"  He made me really nervous the way he was questioning me, considering the fact that everyone else was just breezing through.  I started to wonder if I needed to offer him a bribe.  He let me go though, but I was still kind of shook up by it.

There's more about that leg of the trip, but it's just more people yelling at me in Spanish.  It all seemed like such an unnecessary hassle.  I think they thought I was one of those Americanized Mexicans coming through, not speaking the language and expecting everyone to cater to me.  Or something.  And why wouldn't I be Mexican, looking the way I do with my Spanish last name?  That's really the only conclusion I can come to.  It's not like I wasn't trying to speak Spanish either.  I think that really only made it worse, hearing me butcher up my "native" tongue when it should've been my first language.

Anyway, by the time I landed in Peru, I was prepared to go through the same thing.  Except for everyone just sorta waved me through and I was off the plane and at baggage claim within twenty minutes.  In fact, the immigration officer who stamped my passport was falling asleep.  He was sitting on a lower platform and from my point of view, it looked like he had his eyelids lowered to read my forms/passport.  But then his head started nodding and I realized he was dozing off.  He jolted himself awake, stamped my passport, scribbled something into it, and then let me go.  Didn't say a single word to me.

The problem though, is that I didn't realize until weeks later that the immigration officer had only allowed me to stay in the country for 30 days.  I need 61.  I can stay here for up to 90 days without a visa, but the immigration officer is the one who determines the length of the visit.  It's no problem to get an extension, just show an outbound ticket and pay the fee at the immigrations office.  Of course, if I had been thinking straight, I could've gotten this done when I first entered the country without any extra fees, but after coming through Mexico's customs and immigrations, I was relieved and happy not to be hassled.

So this morning I wake up extra early to make my way to the Immigrations Office across town.  It wasn't too bad this time around.  Everyone here was more helpful, but I started getting nervous when more than one person was telling me it wasn't possible to get an extension.  I'd read that it was fine in my guidebooks and the government travel website.  I was like, I'm leaving for sure.  I've got to be on the other side of the world a week later.  By the time I got to someone who knew what they were talking about, apparently I don't need another stamp or extension.  Everyday I stay over the days on my stamp, I pay $1.  I said to the lady, "Really?  You're sure?  I can do that at the airport when I leave?  You're not gonna fine me or deport me early?"

I guess that's good news.

It just sucks that I've been worrying about it and then having to go there and all the unnecessary crap that came with it.  I keep thinking I should've said something when I first got in the country.  It would've saved me so much time and money.  I blame Mexico, really.  It's only fair.


(no subject)
hello world!
[info]ohgeezlouise
I went paragliding today.  I don't know that I can really describe the feeling.  It was surreal.

I had emailed the company a couple of days ago and they responded quickly, but there was a mix up with phone numbers.  I finally got a hold of the guy, Sandro, this morning.  The conversation went something like this:

S: Holá
Me: ¿Sandro?
S: Sí
Me: ¿Habla inglés?
S: Yes.
Me: I was told to call you...I want to paraglide...I don't know if I need a reservation or what.
S: Okay, well I'm headed to Pachacamac (one of their jump sites) right now and I've got one more space in my car.
Me: Yes!  I want to go.
S: Great.  Where are you?
Me: I'm in Miraflores.  136 Chacaltana.  Mochileros Hostel.
S: Yeah, I know the place.  I'll be there in five minutes.
Me: Five minutes?  Okay.  See you then.

As I hang up the phone, I frantically scramble around trying to get dressed and get my stuff together.  He pulls up in an old VW Beetle and I climb in.  I didn't even really have time to think about it before we were off.  There were two other instructors in the car.  They were fun guys, joking and laughing the whole time.  They asked me how my Spanish was.  I said not great, but not terrible.  I definitely understood the putamadre parts of their stories.  It made them laugh.

Pachacamac is about 30 km south of Lima.  It's an archeological site with some biiiig hills.  Or small mountains, I don't know.  Anyway, we meet up with a bunch of other people--8 customers, and a few other instructors.  They divided us into two groups and took the first half up.  I was put in the second group, so I got to watch the others take off first.



Come Josephine in your flying machine... )

I want to do it again, and if I had the money, I'd seriously consider their crash course in doing it myself.  They said if I bring any friends next time, they'd let me fly for free.  I was all, sweet, definitely hanging onto your business card.

(no subject)
applause
[info]ohgeezlouise

On Sunday, I finally managed to go on a city tour.  It was three and a half hours long in English and Spanish.  It was a good tour, but I wish we'd had more time to walk around and take pictures.  Some things we just drove by, others we stopped at.  I'm thinking of going on my own back to the places I wanted to get a better look at.  Sorry these pictures aren't that great.  I was in a hurry and worried about getting left behind.

The buildings in the historic district of Lima are gorgeous.  I seriously couldn't get enough of them.

Pictures! )

So that was Sunday.  I'm planning on going paragliding this week and then a trip down to the immigrations office that I'm not really looking forward to, but at least I'll get to see the historic section again and go through parks and embassies that we hurried through.

In other news, my allergies are crazy insane here.  I ran out of full bottle of Zyrtec and had to go to one of the local drugstores.  They don't have the same brand, but the lady gave me something with the same active ingredient, I think.  It's just a sheet of pills with no instructions on it.  (It's okay though, gamble!)  It semi-works, but I feel like I'm taking more than I should.  I know Zyrtec is a 24 hour pill, but I've been taking it twice a day.  I feel like a freak sneezing every ten seconds and blowing my nose non-stop.  My eyes are so dry though and itchy itchy itchy.  I may resort to Benadryl.  I'll sleep all the time, but at least I know it super works.

(no subject)
the kiss
[info]ohgeezlouise

Admittedly since coming to the city, I haven´t done a whole lot of anything.  Mostly I´ve been hanging out at the hostel doing the same things I´d be doing at home.  I don´t really have a point in being here, which sorta bummed me out.  I could be unemployed at home instead but at  least I wouldn´t miss out on my favorite tv shows.  At least if I were on the farm, I´d wake up feeling like I have something to do, but I don´t want to get tricked into participating in any more Hare Krishna ceremonies.  On the bright side, my supervisor, Edwin, is coming in ten days earlier which should be fun and we could actually do the whole "backpacking" in Peru thing.

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(no subject)
carmen sandiego
[info]ohgeezlouise
Because I´m sure you didn´t believe me:



Crazy farm! )
 

I wouldn´t have minded staying longer, but all the other volunteers were leaving by the end of the week.  They made it a little more bearable and fun, so I left with four other girls last Thursday and I´m back in Lima in a hostel in the Miraflores section of the city.  It´s a pretty nice area, though plenty of tourists which sorta kills the mood but does make it easier for me to get by.  I´m pretty disappointed the farm didn´t turn out the way I thought it would.  The point of the trip wasn´t really suppose to be a vacation (just the last part when I went to Cusco with my friends).  I was looking forward to the isolation and simple living and learning about all the ecological stuff and stuff.  But anyway, I´m here now and I´ll try to figure out what I´m going to do next.

Oh, by the way, for those of you worried about my bathroom issues, it seems to have resolved itself.  I think I caught a stomach bug of sorts.  I´m not sure from where--the unsanitary conditions on the farm, the one time I brushed my teeth with tap water, or maybe the transition back into meat after eating vegetarian food the last week?  Not really sure.  Either way, I let it run its course for a day before taking medicine to ease the insane stomach cramps I´d had all day.  I may not have any pressing issues going on, but I really can´t spend the day pooing every couple of hours.  I predict things will be okay now.

Not sure how long I´ll stay here, but it´s cheap (only 15 soles a night! =$5), clean, safe, and close to all the action of the city.  I´ll explore a bit.  Thinking of going to Máncora, but we´ll see what finances look like.

Baño Ecologico
the kiss
[info]ohgeezlouise

Hey Guys,

I made it onto the farm, but I don^t think I^m going to stay the whole two months here. In fact, I´m going to leave by the end of the week. It´s beautiful and all, just there´s more to it than meets the eye. I¨m thinking of heading back to Lima and staying at a hostel the rest of the time and then exploring the city on my own. I might go crazy if I stay too long here. (I¨m having trouble with this keyboard as far as apostrophes and all go).

Some of you already know this, but for those of you who don´t, I´ll share, embarrassing as it is. Anyway, I have trouble pooing in toilets that aren´t my own. When I´m staying somewhere unfamiliar, depending on how long the stay, I either don´t poo at all, or I will but only a tiny bit and still not feel satisfied that I´ve pooed enough. Before, when I was telling people about this farm, I would (facetiously) say that it´s a hippie farm where they do yoga all day, do organic farming, vegetarians, compost their own crap. But they really do compost their own crap. The toilet is a white bucket with a toilet seat on it. You sit down, do your business, and when you´re done, there´s another bucket of dirt next to you, and you take a big scoopful of it and pour it on top of your business. This is how you "flush" the toilet. Later on, someboday takes it and empties it into the composting pile. Think of it as a kitty litterbox.

This is fine really, and I have no problem with the idea. I just have problems making myself actually use the thing. Every time I go, I don´t think I´m letting go fully and spend the whole day feeling like I have to use the bathroom still, but not a whole lot of anything does come out on either end.

Anyway, the other volunteers here on the farm are amazing. They´re all like, world travelers backpacking across countries and picking up a million languages on the way. I´m jealous and feel like such a naive baby when it comes to what they´re talking about. All their stories begin with something like "Oh, when I was in India..." or "This reminds me of when I was living in London." I wish I could go into more detail about it. I´m having a good time with them and maybe might tag along with what comes next. Except I probably brought too much stuff with me to backpack for real anywhere at a moment´s notice.
 
 

Pictures here! )


Sorry to my lj friends who´re reading this from their friends page.  The monitor is sorta blurry, and I´m having trouble reading stuff, and my cut tags aren´t working.

Anyway, I´ll probably be back in Lima the next time you hear from me. Once I get off the farm, I´ll let you know the real story.



(no subject)
the kiss
[info]ohgeezlouise
In case you don't already know (since this is my first public entry in about four years), I quit my job (today!) and I'm going to live on a farm in Peru. Everyone laughs when they hear this, as if I'm being completely ridiculous, but it's true. Here's a link to the place where I'll be staying:

Eco Truly Park

Years ago when I was still in Davis, one of my old roommates, Kendall, had asked if I wanted to go live on a farm in Nicaragua.  I said sure, cuz I wasn't doing anything important anyway, and we spent the next hour or so on the internet looking at this program she'd found.  Nothing ever came of it though and it was only something we'd talked about in passing.  I just sorta remembered this idea in the last few months.  I wanted to take a break from my job for several reasons, but I didn't want to sit around at home watching tv all day while I figure out what I want to do.  That's when I remembered Kendall's idea and googled communes.  The first link was to a directory of communes all over the world with a brief description of the place.

As soon as I read about Eco Truly in Peru, I was instantly in love.  I went looking through all the pictures on their facebook trying to find out everything I could.  The more I saw, the more I wanted to go.  After picking up a guide book at Barnes & Noble, I thought hey, as long as I'm down there, I could drop by Machu Picchu.  Apparently the only way to properly see it is to backpack and hike the Inca Trail, so I guess that's what I'll do.  I invited several people to go with me and plenty were interested, but not so many that were able to go.  One of my supervisors at work, Edwin, and my old roommate Jackie said they'd come along for the hike.  Edwin then suggested a jungle tour as well.  I mean, the Amazon is close by and we're already there, so why not?  So that's how all that happened.

Last Wednesday I went down to REI to pick up some of the major stuff I needed.  I don't know anything about camping gear, so I call Vaughn, geologist extraordinaire, and ask him.  He starts naming all the specific things I'm going to need, getting into detail about cost vs. quality and necessity as I run around the store picking up the items up as I see it.  Made the whole thing super easy as I otherwise would've wandered around for hours before deciding between one sleeping bag or the other.  When I get home, I try out all my stuff again.  This is when it starts to hit me that I'm really gonna do this.  So I'm rolling around in my new down pomegranate colored sleeping bag in front of the tv when National Geographic's Locked up Abroad comes on featuring an episode in Cuzco (where the Inca Trail begins).  It really starts to freak me out and I want to change the channel, but on the other hand, I should keep watching so I know what I shouldn't do.

I told my other supervisor, Tyler, about this.  He says, "That's why I was telling you not to smuggle drugs the other day!  That's the same episode I saw!"  I thought he meant it as a general precaution.  I saw Brokedown Palace.  Edwin, if you read this, I swear if you let some girl liquor you up and trick you into smuggling drugs...

Anyway, only a couple more days.  I'm not sure I'm prepared.  I feel like I have so much stuff to do and I'm procrastinating by blogging about it all.  The next time you hear from me, I'll probably be there already.  I'll put pictures up and stuff.  I guess I should offer to write postcards, but I'm actually pretty terrible at remembering this stuff.  If you want one though, email your address to me at lbbayona@gmail.com and I'll try.